Joanne Chang’s Buttermilk Biscuits
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I have read about Joanne Chang in blogs and magazines for years, watched her beat Bobby Flay in a sticky bun throwdown, drooled over both of her cookbooks at the library, but for reasons I can’t explain had never made any of her recipes until a few days ago.
Joanne Chang’s Buttermilk Biscuits
The recipe for buttermilk biscuits with maple and black pepper featured below, is in Dana Cowin’s new cookbook, Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen. Many of you likely know Dana as the Editor in Chief of Food and Wine magazine, as someone who knows food better than anyone, as someone who wouldn’t make too many mistakes in the kitchen, or who would be an unlikely person to admit to them.
Well, the secret’s out: In MMM, Dana confesses to not being a great cook (though I’m still not sure I quite believe her). I don’t want to give too much away because both the forward, written by Thomas Keller, and Dana’s own introduction are inspiring and funny, highlights being a vignette revealing how Dana’s “fails” in the kitchen led to the creation of a Food and Wine help column under a pseudonym, a story about killing lobsters with Eric Ripert and how he taught her to focus, and a note on how good cooking starts with honesty.
What follows in the book are recipes with advice and tips from 65 professional chefs, including Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Jose Andres, April Bloomfield, David Chang, and Thomas Keller who offers a three-step, foolproof recipe for roast chicken.
Despite the presence and importance of these chefs in the book, however, the recipes are not cheffy at all: think meatballs (and how to make them light and tender), potstickers (and how to make them not only brown but also crisp), great ribs (and a no-fuss way to make them).
Of the 20 recipes I have bookmarked, top picks include halibut cooked in red coconut curry, baked ziti Arrabbiata, Korean meat loaf (made with a whole cup of gochujang chile paste), and braised chicken with leeks.
How to make Better Biscuits
I have made many a biscuit over the years, but until making this recipe, never have I folded the dough over itself four times before cutting it, a step that helps create beautiful layers in the finished biscuits, and never have I chilled the cut biscuits for an hour before baking, a step that helps make the biscuits flakier. This recipe is appended with 10 tips from Joanne ranging from how best to incorporate baking soda (I never would have imagined this to be an issue) to the role sugar plays in baking not only for sweetness but also for texture (also news to me).
- Folding the dough four times truly creates incredible flakiness. These biscuits are the lightest, flakiest, best biscuits I’ve ever made.
- For a taller biscuit, roll the dough to a thickness of 1-inch.
- Maple syrup + Maldon sea salt make for an irresistible salty-sweet top.
- Bake on the highest rack for beautifully golden biscuits in 15 minutes. (Every oven is different, however, so watch closely and adjust accordingly)
- For no-waste (trimmings/scraps) biscuits, cut the dough into squares as opposed to circles.
If you live in the area, this is the best buttermilk. Argyle Cheese Farmer also makes the best yogurt. The Niskayuna Co-op carries both:
The four-fold shaping process:
I find that a one-inch thick dough creates the size biscuit I like best
Square biscuit made from the scraps:
PrintButtermilk Biscuits with Maple and Sea Salt
- Total Time: 45 minutes
- Yield: 6-8 biscuits
Description
Source Dana Cowin’s Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen.
Update November 2021: I recently upped the amount of salt here. It had previously been 1 teaspoon (6 grams). I think these biscuits need the updated amount (reflected in the ingredient list below), but if you’ve made these in the past and have been satisfied with the result, you can stick to the 1 teaspoon.
Ingredients
- 3 cups (384 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for your work surface
- 3 tablespoons (44 g) sugar
- 1 tablespoon (13 g) baking powder
- 1.5 teaspoon sea salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt (10 g), see notes above
- ½ teaspoon (2 g) baking soda
- 12 tablespoons (170 g) cold unsalted butter, diced, plus more for serving
- 1¼ cups (330 g) cold buttermilk
- pure maple syrup, for rubbing the biscuits
- nice sea salt or coarse freshly ground black pepper for sprinkling
Instructions
- Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and baking soda in a large bowl. Using your fingers, work in the butter just until the mixture turns into coarse crumbs with some pea-size pieces of butter remaining. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the buttermilk just until the dry ingredients are evenly moistened.
- Turn the shaggy dough out onto a very lightly floured work surface and pat into a ½-inch thick rectangle. Fold it in half once so that it’s 1-inch thick. Do this three more times to create layers in the dough. Then roll the dough out to about a 1-inch thick rectangle (or large enough so that a 3-inch biscuit cutter can stamp out 6 biscuits) using a lightly floured rolling pin: Place the pin in the middle of the dough and roll it forward, then put the pin back in the middle of the dough and roll it backward.
- Using a lightly floured 3-inch round cutter, cut out the biscuits (in one motion — do not twist the cutter), as close together as possible, and transfer to the prepared baking sheet leaving 2 inches between them. Gently pat the dough scraps together (do not overwork the dough), reroll and cut out more biscuits. (Note: You could just cut the rectangle into 8 squares, which will leave you with no scraps to reroll.)
- If you have time, put the baking sheet in the refrigerator and chill the biscuits for at least an hour before baking — they will be flakier. (Skip this step if you don’t have time.)
- Preheat oven to 425ºF.
- Use the back of a spoon to rub the biscuits lightly with maple syrup and sprinkle with salt or pepper to taste.
- Place the biscuits in the oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 400ºF. Bake the biscuits until they’re risen and golden, 15 to 20 minutes. I get the best results baking these on the top rack of my oven, but every oven is different, so play around with what works best with your oven. Serve warm, with butter.
- Prep Time: 25 minutes
- Cook Time: 20 minutes
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81 Comments on “Joanne Chang’s Buttermilk Biscuits”
Can the dough be made ahead of time, and stored in the fridge or freezer a few days before rolling & baking?
Yes, absolutely! If you are going to store the biscuits for more than a day, I would suggest freezing them. No harm will be done, and they will only need a little bit of more time in the oven — no thawing before baking is necessary. I just find that when scone dough or biscuit dough is stored in the fridge for too many days, the dough kind of turns grayish — it must be some sort of reaction between the leavening agents and the butter?
I was reviewing the recipe one more time before baking tonight, and couldn’t help noticing that you mentioned buying buttermilk at the Niskayuna Co-op. I grew up in Niskayuna! Do you live in the area? I’m in Chicago now, but frequently visit, as my parents are still there. I’d be curious to know your favorite places to eat around there!
No way! I live in Niskayuna just a couple blocks from the co-op, which is my favorite place to visit! I am obsessed with Niskayuna. I just love love love this town and hope we stay here forever. You will have to get in touch when you come back home…is that creepy? 🙂 I have to admit that we don’t get out too much, but I love Gershon’s, and I love Pizza Buono because they have a fresh juice bar, and they have a play kitchen for the kids to play with, and my kids love the pizza. What else? I love Tara Kitchen in Schenectady. In the fall, I love Riverview Orchard for their apple cider donuts. Do you have any recs?
What an awesome coincidence! It would be fabulous to meet you, although I am in the process of moving from Chicago to San Francisco so don’t know when my next trip home will be. I used to love Gershon’s growing up, I almost forgot about it. And I have fond memories of Riverview Orchard. I was a big fan of Ambition Cafe on Jay Street in Schenectady, if you’re in the mood for funky sandwiches and an eclectic atmosphere. Or if you ever get down to Colonie, a friend who I graduated with from Niskayuna High School now owns Reel Seafood on Wolf Rd. But I tend to enjoy a home-cooked meal with my family more often than going out when I’m back. Nisky is definitely a wonderful place to raise a family. My parents still live off of Van Antwerp Road so if you ever run into a couple with the last name of Lynch and a giant blond labradoodle, say hi for me!
I never made biscuits before today. And I must say, WOW. Very yummy and the whole family gobbled them up! Never had great success with dough on a wooden cutting board, and today was no exception but managed. What surfaces are best non-stick?
I am going to make these for Thanksgiving, but am wondering if I make and bake ahead of time and then freeze the baked buscuits, what is the best way to reheat on Thanksgiving? Thanks!!
Hi Brook — Did you think about freezing the cut biscuits? And then baking them straight from the freezer on Thanksgiving day? I know oven space is tight, but you could bake them while the turkey rests? They’ll only take a few minutes longer than when baked fresh. But, if this isn’t an option, I would thaw them at room temperature, then rewarm at 350ºF for 10 minutes or so — I wouldn’t cover them with foil, because this tends to steam them and make them soggy — on a sheetpan. Let me know if there is anything else!
I’m going to make these for an office holiday lunch potluck for about 100 people! Would it be okay to make the night before? How should I store them overnight if they’ll be eaten during lunch the next day?
Thanks in advance for your feedback 🙂
Hi Alexandra,
Very much hope you will see this, I can see that this is quite an old thread.
Have been enjoying reading your blog on American cooking, and I would love to try your flaky biscuits, but am having trouble finding a reliable conversion for the cups of flour to grams (in the UK most things are done by weight).
One gives 3 cups as 450g, not 384 – and still another gives 2 cups as 480g!
I think the butter looks ok at 174g?
Many thanks for your time
Jenni
Help!
Hi Jenni!
For me, 1 cup of flour is 128 g, so for 3 cups, I do 384 g, but everyone has their own standard — I tend to go on the lighter side. But, when I make these, I do use 384 g, so I say try it! As for the butter, 12 tablespoons equals 1.5 sticks, which for us is 6 ounces, which equals about 170 g, so you’re close! Couldn’t go wrong using 174 g. Hope I got this to you in time!
Hi! I’ve made these before and they are AMAZING. Want to make them for Thanksgiving, but hoping to make the dough a day before a refrigerate overnight to save time day-of. Will they come out OK if I do this??
Yes, absolutely!! I wouldn’t make the dough much more than a day in advance bc sometimes the dough starts turning grey (I think the baking soda/powder starts reacting) after a few days, but yes, this definitely works. Happy Thanksgiving!!
Thank you!! Happy Thanksgiving to you as well!
OMG!! I LOVE Joanne Chang, and if I am ever in the Boston area I will be visiting her bakery as well as her restaurant. She is just the cutest thing alive. Biscuits this week!
These biscuits are great! Every time I make them, they’re a hit! Truly AMAZING 😀
So happy you like them, too! I love these.
Karen, I think the low rating is due to carbmanchu, who actually thinks he/she made a mistake. Alas!
Just made and ate! They are certainly delicious with a great flavor. I found them to be quite heavy and not very flaky ,tho truly enjoyed them. I got 8 out of rectangle and they wer still pretty large. I would make again for sure, maybe rolling out a little less than one inch in depth. Idk any thoughts on the density issue?
Love your recipes and your website. Thanks so much !
Hi Patty! So sorry for the delay here … thank you for the kind words 🙂
I have to admit I have not made these in ages, but I think cutting them into smaller pieces and rolling them thinner would help with the density issue. Hope that helps!
This is my go-to biscuit recipe for a few years now. The directions are spot-on. These biscuits even work well gluten free and dairy-free (I keep the butter, but sub nutmilk “buttermilk”: for every 1 c of nut milk, add 1T cider vinegar; works as well as real buttermilk). I use Outrageous Baking GF flour.
Wow, so great to hear this! I don’t know of that GF flour, but I am going to get my hands on some ASAP. Thanks for the rec!
Oh, wow, these were delicious! From the rectangle I rolled out I cut them into 8 pieces and they rose beautifully. The maple syrup on top was such a nice touch. Perfect accompaniment to our ham, collards, potato gratin New Year’s dinner. Will absolutely be making again!
Wonderful to hear this, Kristen! Your menu sounds absolutely divine!! Happy Happy New year 🎉🎉🎉🎉
These were sooo good! Maybe even the best biscuits I’ve ever eaten and definitely the best I’ve ever made.
Wonderful to hear this, Rose! Thanks for writing 🙂
These were the best biscuits I’ve ever had! A friend just made them and I chased her down for the recipe. Perfection!
So nice to hear this, Sarah! Thanks for writing 🙂 🙂 🙂