Q&A with Susan Spungen
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy.
Friends, most of you likely are familiar with Susan Spungen, but in case you are not, let me briefly sum her up: original Martha Stewart Living editor, New York Times contributor, food stylist of Julie and Julia, It’s Complicated, and Eat Pray Love.
I knew all of this before I opened Open Kitchen, but the more I spent time with the cookbook, the more curious I became. Susan offers glimpses of her past throughout the book, including growing up in Philadelphia and training as an artist, but I wanted to know more, so I reached out, and she kindly responded.
Here’s our Q&A. Read to the end for another surprise 🎉🎉🎉
Q&A with Susan Spungen
1. I read in Open Kitchen that you trained as an artist. Can you elaborate? At what point in your life was this? When did you transition from art to food? Or were the two spheres often overlapping?
SS: Yes, I always wanted to be an artist and applied only to art schools, but I didn’t end up graduating for a variety of reasons. I always loved to cook and bake when I was a kid and worked in restaurants during a gap year and then through college. And then when I left college, I continued working in food because it was just a natural path for me, but I wasn’t really career-minded at that point.
2. I also read in Open Kitchen that you fell into food by accident? When was this? Or how did this happen?
Well, to continue with that story: I had to work after I left school, so again, food was the natural path for me because I liked it and was good at it.
I lived in Aspen for a few years right after I left school and mostly waited tables in a cafe. When I moved to New York City a few years later, I thought waiting tables would be the best way to make money, but I found out I wasn’t really experienced enough for real NYC restaurants, so I fell into a job at a restaurant where I was mostly managing the staff, but also dealing with food a bit.
It was a restaurant called “Food” which started out as a co-op for artists started by the artist Gordon Matta-Clark in soho. By then it was a regular restaurant but retained some of the bohemian vibe and still served as a sort of soup kitchen for the artists in the neighborhood.
I was happy being in the thick of things, but after awhile I thought I should perhaps think about a career of some sort, so I gradually drifted into catering (working for a small company and doing everything). It’s a very long story, and I haven’t found a way to shorten it, but eventually I decided I should get a real food job, and somehow got myself hired as a chef making prepared foods at a beautiful new shop in soho.
I never wanted to work in restaurant kitchens because I kind of knew I wouldn’t be happy in that environment, so I was always looking for something more creative. I was still in my twenties at this point. After that job ended, I went back to catering again, because I liked the variety it offered—always a different menu, a different location, a chance to be creative.
3. I think so many people would love to hear more about your background, from growing up in Philadelphia to working at The Commissary to becoming a food stylist. (Sidenote: The Frog Commissary Cookbook was one of the first cookbooks I owned, and I still treasure it.)
How did you find yourself at Martha Stewart Living and from there as the food stylist for Julie and Julia and so many other films? Do you have any advice for someone wanting to get into food styling?
Wow! It’s hard to pack my whole history into a few short paragraphs, but I’ll try! So, yes, during my gap year (which was really more like “I missed the college application deadline” year), I started working at The Commissary which was a very cool and popular restaurant in the late 70’s (yes, I’ve been around awhile).
I think that is where the seeds were planted that working with food could be really cool, and the people who did it were pretty cool. There were a lot of erstwhile artists working there, so I guess I’ve always found myself at the intersection of art and food, and there are a lot of natural crossovers from one to the other.
The reason I became interested in food styling was that I wanted to find a way to bring those two things closer together. In my quest to become a food stylist, I had the good fortune to connect with Martha Stewart just when she was about to start MSL.
I did some freelance work on the first 3 test issues and meanwhile took a job as pastry chef at a new Italian restaurant called Coco Pazzo, which was a big hit in the early 90’s. I worked there long enough to get 3 stars from the NYT, and then, as I was hoping it would, a full-time job as food editor became available at the nascent MSL. I jumped at the chance to join this team and never looked back. It was a perfect fit for me, and I learned so much during my 12 years there.
And re: Frog Commissary Cookbook — it is a good one!
4. I know you find lots of inspiration from the seasons and from seasonal produce. Where else do you find inspiration? I’m thinking in particular about your cookie spread for The New York Times, which was mind blowing. Each cookie is a piece of art.
Well, for that assignment, I did look to fine art as my main inspiration, which seemed obvious to me. It started with the Ellsworth Kelly brushstroke series, and some of his color field work. It just seemed like an idea that would translate well, and luckily it did.
Otherwise, I am always so inspired by nature and the beauty of ingredients. I spend time in Amagansett, and we are members of Quail Hill Farm, which was one of the first CSA farms in the U.S. It’s a pick-your-own setup, and there is nothing more inspiring than digging up potatoes or carrots or painstakingly picking green beans and then going directly home and cooking with them. It really teaches you how food is supposed to taste.
5. Is there one (or more?) recipe(s) in Open Kitchen, you wish everyone would make?
Well, all of them of course! They are all my children and I love them equally! But since we are going into spring and summer, I will focus on those. In the dessert category, I really love the strawberry tart (which was inspired by a favorite dessert from The Commissary). Made with in-season, local strawberries, there is nothing better! In the savory category, I am crazy about the snap pea salad. I could eat a whole bowl of that crunchy salad myself!
A new favorite Susan Spungen recipe: Blistered Shishitos with Avocado Crema:
Another favorite: “Grilled” Romaine Caesar Salad (so easy and good):
Susan Spungen’s Open Kitchen: it’s a beauty! And guess what? I have two copies to give away. Leave a comment to enter the giveaway. Share a favorite Susan Spungen recipe or something you’ve been loving to make lately or simply tell me anything!
UPDATE: Giveaway is closed. Winners are Annette and Beverly. I have emailed you.
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy.
305 Comments on “Q&A with Susan Spungen”
I’m yearning to be inspired by fresh spring greens and bright colored vegetables. Warm crusty breads and light desserts. Pandemic life has squished the joy of cooking a bit. I’m feeling tired and ready for bright lights. Can’t wait to checkout this beautiful cookbook.
Thanks for introducing us to another fab cook!
can’t wait to see this book, sounds right up our alley! This difficult period has led to a great deal of cooking and I’ve enjoyed every meal except for the inedible sour dough bread. I clearly need help in that department!
Oh me please for the give away! Your interview was delightful and I really want to get to know her better.
Another fabulous cookbook to flip through over and over again and create some delicious food like “Art-ooks🧑🏻🍳👩🏻🎨
Love to try new recipes and this book would be a great addition to my collection
Karen
I love simple, casual food that can be shared and this cook book looks like it is right up my alley. Thank you for sharing with us along with all your great recipes.
Having been inspired by you and your cookbook and web site so often, I look forward to learning more about Susan and her recipes. I hope to make her strawberry tart for my husband’s June birthday! He always requests a strawberry desert for the occasion!
I’m making key lime pie today for Cinco de Mayo – cheers!
I would love to try her strawberry tart.
I’ve never heard of Susan Spungen but her background is interesting. Just goes to show you that life can take you down a wondering path and you can never be quite sure where it will take you.
Like many, many people I find myself attempting to bake bread. So far I’ve tried making milk bread with mixed success. Tomorrow I’m attempting pita. Wish me luck!
I just happened to be looking at Open Kitchen online yesterday but was frustrated as there was little or no indication anywhere I looked of what sort of recipes were included– no table of contents or index– so I wasn’t about to buy on faith (been there, regretted that). Now that you’ve shared this, I’m thinking this is a book I’d not only enjoy but would actually cook from.
I also want to say that I love your videos, Ali! So simple but that’s the beauty of them. Thanks for the inspiration.
So wouldn’t you know today I found the table of contents and index! The book looks amazing.
It was very interesting learning more about Susan Spungen! I’m so glad I found your website during quarantine for both interesting articles like this and of course all the bread baking ideas!! Thank you.
What a beautiful book cover! I look forward to looking at it. Cooking a lot these days, though shopping is a challenge.
Keep up the inspiring posts!
The grilled romaine will be on my table tonight. I loved reading Susan Spungen’s story.
Delightful to learn more about Susan. Her cookbook would open up a world full of new inspiring recipes to try!
Loved this post Ali. Thanks for the inspiration and I loved Susan’s comment regarding the similarities between food and art. I have always believed that as well.
Based on your recommendation and this interview, I’m definitely going to order “Open Kitchen” to add to my collection. Cooking and reading have been two things that are helping me get through this pandemic with some semblance of sanity.
Love the latest blog post both recipes look great I want to try making both of them.
I can’t wait to make the grilled romaine
Thanks for the introduction! I can’t wait to try some Susan Spungen recipes—especially the snap pea salad she mentions.
I love making simple meals out of fresh ingredients from my garden or local farm stand.
I also have the Frog Commissary Cookbook, and ate there and at Poses’ other ventures. Introduced me to a whole ‘nother world, which I am still exploring. And the Strawberry Heart Tart is a classic!
The cookies Susan created for the NYT around the holidays were amazing and I’m sure this cookbook will be the same! Can’t wait to read it!
Thanks for doing the Sourdough series. I have three starters working at the moment. I started off one with buggy dark rye flour which has given me terrific crackers and loaves. Another I started with just water and KA whole wheat flour (again, quite old) and the third was begun with grape water and fresh KA whole wheat which I lucked upon one day. In the same order their names are Froggy, Mole and Mr. Toad…….yeast, who needs it, though I still look for on the shelves.
It’s hot where I am so baking is a sacrifice but the breads and crackers are so much better than any store, even the local bakeries. (That’s not a brag)
One of my resolutions this year was to become a better cook and being stuck at home with everything shut down has really forced me to take the time. But I am getting a lot of joy from creating and seeing my hard work come to fruition!
I am feeling the need to be INSPIRED. These past (nearly) 2 months have me in the cooking doldrums–I’d love a copy of this book!
I was so inspired and intimidated by the cookie column that the Times featured. A friend recently posted the buckwheat loaf with tahini glaze and I must try that too. Also I am a past and sometimes present caterer so feel like I can relate to Susan in many ways. (Have an art background) I have to get a copy of her book though always say I have too many cookbooks but really they are treasures and glimpses into someone’s life. Therefore can always have one more gem.
If this lady worked with Martha Stewart, it was probably a match made in heaven!
Hello Ali. Love your posts and your photo styling is always gorgeous. That romaine is mouthwatering. I’ll be doing that as soon as I can get my hands on some. I’ve been a fan of Susan’s forever and did not know her. But MSL was a staple in my kitchen for years.
Such a beautiful book and great timing since we are all home cooking for loved ones!
The photos promise to be beautiful!
Oh my gosh! What a delicious article and now I am totally intrigued. I would LOVE to receive this book! ::::jumping up and down and waving arms madly::::: What a lovely idea.
Snap pea salad, you are calling my name!
Seasonal produce is one of my favorite things. It makes cooking and baking so much fun and more tasty. Can’t wait for stone fruit season !
So cool! I need to rewatch those movies. I loved learning more about Susan’s career path!
I recently watched Susan make gougeres on IG Live with David Lebovitz and she was so lovely! Her book sounds like a wonderful celebration of seasonal recipes. Thank you for this Q&A!
Awesome interview! I served Susan’s Shaved Asparagus Salad last night for my family and it was a hit! Can’t wait to try her Snap Pea Salad.