A few summers ago, I bumped into Richard Bourdon at Berkshire Mountain Bakery. During our brief chat, he told me, among other things, he would never write a cookbook because he’s always changing his methods. I was shocked to hear this because I would have thought that after 30+ years of running his renowned bakery, he would know all there is to know about bread baking, that his formula would require zero tinkering, and that he and all of his staff could churn out the acclaimed BMB breads in their sleep.
But it was refreshing and reassuring to hear this, too, because I’m constantly changing how I make things, and I don’t know that I’ll ever stop. For the past few months, I’ve been making the base focaccia bread recipe from Bread Toast Crumbs, but trying different things: using more yeast, using less yeast, doing longer, slower rises at room temperature, doing longer, slower rises in the refrigerator.
What Makes The Best Focaccia?
I’ll spare you all the details of the various experiments and skip straight to what I’ve found creates the best focaccia, one that emerges golden all around, looking like a brain, its surface woven with a winding labyrinth of deep crevices: refrigerated dough. This is nothing novel—many bakers extol the virtues of the cold fermentation process—and it came as no surprise to me either: it was, after all, past-prime Jim Lahey refrigerated dough that showed me how easy focaccia could be: place cold, several-days-old pizza dough in a well-oiled pan, let it rise for several hours or until it doubles, drizzle with more oil, dimple with your fingers, sprinkle with sea salt, then bake until done.
Employing a refrigerator rise takes time because the cold environment slows everything down initially, and during the second rise, the cold dough takes time to warm to room temperature. The overall effort, however, is very hands off, and the result is worth it. In sum, I’ve found:
- Allowing the dough to rest 18 to 24 hours in the fridge yields the best results.
- The amount of yeast doesn’t really matter.
- A buttered or parchment-lined pan in addition to the olive oil will prevent sticking. I’ve been baking the focaccia in two 9-inch Pyrex pie plates. Butter + oil is essential to prevent sticking.
- Count on 2 to 4 hours for the second rise.
- After the second rise, dimple the dough, then immediately stick the pans in the oven — this has been a critical difference for me in terms of keeping those desirable crevices. If you dimple and let the dough rise again even for 20 minutes before popping the pan in the oven, the crevices begin to dissolve. Note: The bread still tastes delicious without all of those crevices, but there’s something appetizing about the brain-like appearance … or is that just me?
Friends, if any of you are on Instagram, I have a step-by-step video highlighted in stories, which might provide some guidance. If not, I hope the photo play-by-play below will offer the same instruction. As always, I am here if you have questions.
A familiar scene: 4 cups (512 g) flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons instant yeast:
Add 2 cups lukewarm water:
Mix dough:
Cover bowl. You all have one of these, right? Stick bowl in the fridge immediately; leave it there to rise for 12 to 18 hours (or longer—I’ve left it there for two days).
Remove from fridge, and remove cover:
Deflate dough:
Butter or line with parchment paper two 8- or 9-inch pie plates or something similar; then pour a tablespoon of olive oil into each. (The butter/parchment will ensure the bread doesn’t stick.) Divide the dough in half and place each half into the prepare pans. Use your hands to turn the dough in the oil, creating a rough ball. Don’t touch the dough again for 2 to 4 hours depending on your environment.
When the dough looks like this…
…pour another tablespoon of olive oil over each round, and using your fingers, press straight down to create deep dimples. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt, such as Maldon.
Transfer to oven immediately and bake at 425ºF for 25 minutes or until golden all around.
Focaccia brain.
Remove focaccia from pans and place on cooling racks.
My favorite thing to do with these rounds of focaccia (besides serving them with olive oil and dukkah) is to make a slab sandwich. In the video below, the fillings include: mozzarella, prosciutto, arugula, and olive oil. Truth be told, the mozzarella brought little to the table here. Butter, as in Gabrielle Hamilton’s three fats sandwich, would have been better.
Here’s another fun one: Slab Sandwich with Roasted Red Peppers, Olive Tapenade, & Whipped Honey Goat Cheese
The Best, Easiest Focaccia Bread Recipe
- Prep Time: 18 hours
- Cook Time: 30 minutes
- Total Time: 18 hours 30 minutes
- Yield: 2 loaves
Print Recipe
Pin RecipeDescription
Adapted from the focaccia and pissaladière recipes in Bread Toast Crumbs.
A few notes:
- For video guidance, see this Instagram Story.
- I’ve been baking the focaccia in two 9-inch Pyrex pie plates. Butter + oil is essential to prevent sticking.
- Other pan options include: A 9×13-inch pan — do not split the dough in half, if you use this option, which will create a thicker focaccia (I love this USA pan for this one). A 13×18-inch rimmed sheet pan — this creates a thinner focaccia, which is great for slab sandwiches.
- As always, for best results, use a digital scale to measure the flour.
- I love SAF instant yeast. I buy it in bulk, transfer it to a quart storage container, and store it in my fridge for months. You can store it in the freezer also.
- Plan ahead: While you certainly could make this more quickly, it turns out especially well if you mix the dough the day before you plan on baking it. The second rise, too, takes 2 to 4 hours.
Ingredients
- 4 cups (512 g) all-purpose flour
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 2 teaspoons instant yeast
- 2 cups lukewarm water, made by combining 1/2 cup boiling water with 1 1/2 cups cold water
- butter for greasing
- 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
- flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
Instructions
- Make the dough: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and instant yeast. Add the water. Using a rubber spatula, mix until the liquid is absorbed and the ingredients form a sticky dough ball. Cover the bowl with a damp tea towel or plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator immediately for at least 12 hours.
- Line two 8- or 9-inch pie plates (or something similar) with parchment paper or grease with butter or coat with nonstick cooking spray. Pour a tablespoon of oil into the center of each pan. Using two forks, deflate the dough by releasing it from the sides of the bowl and pulling it toward the center. Rotate the bowl in quarter turns as you deflate, turning the mass into a rough ball. Use the forks to split the dough into two equal pieces. Place one piece into one of the prepared pans. Roll the dough ball in the oil to coat it all over, forming a rough ball. Repeat with the remaining piece. Let the dough balls rest for 2 to 4 hours depending on the temperature of your kitchen.
- Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat it to 425°F. Pour another tablespoon of oil over each round of dough. Rub your hands lightly in the oil to coat, then, using all of your fingers, press straight down to create deep dimples. If necessary, gently stretch the dough as you dimple to allow the dough to fill the pan. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt all over.
- Transfer the pans to the oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the underside is golden and crisp. Remove the pans from the oven and transfer the focaccia to cooling racks. Let it cool for 10 minutes before cutting and serving; let it cool completely if you are halving it with the intention of making a sandwich.
- Category: Bread
- Method: Oven
- Cuisine: Italian
Keywords: bread, focaccia, overnight, refrigerator, cold, dough
Meldy says
Can I substitute coarse salt or fine sea salt for the flaky sea salt? I can’t find that in stores near me.
alexandra says
Yes! Just go light.
Melissa Marrocco says
I just made this dough and realized I can either make it tonight (12 hour cold rise) or on Friday (48 hours cold rise, which I see that you have done).. which would you recommend??
alexandra says
Hi! I may be too late here … if you do the 48 hour rise, just be sure the dough is coated in oil, especially if it’s not in an air-tight container. Either will produce great results … the 48 hour rise may have a bit more air bubbles and depth of flavor. Good luck! I’m making this today, too 🙂
Melissa Marrocco says
I actually split the dough in half. Baked some of it on the 12 hour rise, then the rest today, 2 days later..(2 hour rest for both) both turned out great!
alexandra says
Yay! So happy to hear this, Melissa!
Jen says
I had to leave while my dough was on the second (2 to4) hour rise…so it was more like a 9 hour rise😰. It didn’t come out as fluffy and golden brown as what is pictured, I’m sure because it over proofed..is that a thing? It’s still very tasty though, and I’ll definitely try again👍 love all your recipes💖
★★★★
alexandra says
Oh bummer … yes, over proofing is a thing. Next time: punch it down again and stick it back in the fridge. Then pull it out and do the “second rise” as directed. SO glad you will try this one again … it really is so easy and good if you can get the dough to work with your schedule 🙂
Caroline says
I loved this recipe! I’ve struggled with baking at high altitude (I’m at 6800 ft in Colorado), but this focaccia turned out great! I used it to make slab sandwiches for dinner and we enjoyed the bread so much. Thanks for all your wonderful recipes and tips, I really appreciate your work and your website.
★★★★★
alexandra says
So happy to hear this, Caroline! Thank you for the kind words 🙂 I love a focaccia slab sandwich … so glad it worked out!
Rosanna Lorenzana says
Help!! Made the overnight foccacia recipe and 13 hours in the fridge but it barely had risen!!! Should I put it back in the ref or do the 2nd rise already?
alexandra says
Hi Rosanna, I think we messaged on IG, so I’ll keep this brief, but it sounds as though that first rise needed to go a little bit longer. Hope it works out better next time!
Ralph Ewton says
I have the book on order but a reviewer says the online focaccia is better. I assume that’s the overnight fridge version. Reading the recipe, though, I see 512 g flour and 2 cups of water. That would be 480 g water for almost 94% hydration. Can that be right?? Sounds like soup.
Ralph
alexandra says
Hi Ralph! You are exactly right — this (and the main peasant bread recipe in the book) are 94% hydration doughs. Super wet. But not soup! Hope you give this a go. It’s one of my favorites.
Julie Mink says
Getting ready to start this dough first time making focaccia very excited!! Would love to add some rosemary should I put on top with the sea salt or rosemary oil in the dough as well?
alexandra says
Both ideas sound great! I love adding a little chopped rosemary on top of focaccia.
Kaye Blewett says
Can I use frexh yeast and if so how much please? Kaye
★★★★★
alexandra says
Hi! Yes. I have never actually used fresh yeast, but this is how to convert: 10g of fresh yeast = 1 teaspoon of dry yeast. So use 20 g fresh yeast.
Denise says
Just made this in 11 x 16 pan for sandwiches. Looks nice but top is firm/crisp. Is yours soft on top and throughout or is just center soft? I have had focaccia in restaurant bread baskets and they are usually soft on top, but that might just be a poor example of focaccia!
alexandra says
Hi Denise! My top is usually on the soft side — it definitely has some crispness due to the oil, but it usually softens up as it cools. I’m wondering if you baked it in a smaller pan if you might get a softer crust?
Flowercook54 says
I too am always ‘updating’ my methods! So far the serious eats method has been my favorite but the refrigerator will give me some leeway.
Do you cover the pans for the final rise?
Look forward to trying your quinoa flax bread also,thank you!
Anita
alexandra says
Oh interesting! I don’t know the Serious Eats method. I’ll look it up. I do not cover the pan for the final rise, though I do coat the dough in slick of oil to prevent it from drying out. Hope the focaccia turns out well for you!