Homemade breadcrumbs slipped into our dinner regimen slowly, appearing on our salads to start, the kale caesars in particular, quietly replacing croutons altogether. But shortly after their introduction, perhaps encouraged by their warm reception, they made haste, and soon began garnishing our pastas, mingling with our roasted vegetables, delicately topping our fish fillets. These days they’ve gotten completely brazen, sometimes accompanying every item on the plate. I don’t know when this trend will fizzle, but I’m liking it very much at the moment.
The inspiration to start whizzing my stale bread in the food processor, storing the crumbs in the freezer, and toasting them in a skillet with olive oil at the dinner hour, came from two sources: a great chef interview on the kitchn in early November and the editor’s letter in this month’s bon appètit, which offered tips on how to be a better cook from seven renowned chefs around the world including Mario Batali who admits that “there’s almost nothing [he] wouldn’t put homemade breadcrumbs on.” I’m starting to share this sentiment. These crunchy, salted, olive-oil toasted bits are truly addictive.
What’s best about this recent addition to the pantry is that it makes use of an ingredient that often was destined for the trash. Now, stale bread never goes to waste. At the first sign of its aging, into the food processor it goes, and from there, into the freezer it gets stashed.
What’s more, just when I think I have nothing to serve for dinner, toasted breadcrumbs along with a few pantry items — garlic, crushed red pepper flakes and anchovies — come to the rescue, working together to produce an unbelievably tasty dinner. This pasta dish, inspired by a recipe in Batali’s Molto Italiano can be spruced up with caramelized onions, if you feel like making them, or sautéed greens, if you have them, but if you don’t, don’t fret. I promise that with just four ingredients, a delectable dinner will materialize. This is pantry cooking at its finest — quick, easy, delicious.
When you’re ready to toast your breadcrumbs to add to pasta, salad, roasted vegetables, etc: heat about 1.5 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat; sprinkle in about a cup of bread crumbs; season with a pinch of salt; stir until golden; remove from heat until ready to use.
I have always loved the Chez Panisse Vegetables technique for making salad dressings, which often starts with macerating shallots in citrus juice or vinegar. This is what I have been doing lately:
Finely dice a shallot or two. Place in a bowl and cover with the juice of one orange. Add 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar. Season with a pinch of kosher salt and a pinch of sugar. Let macerate for 15 minutes, if you have the time, or less, if you don’t. Whisk in about 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil. It’s ok if the dressing is not totally emulsified. Just give it a stir when you’re ready to use it and spoon it, making sure to scoop out some of those delicious shallots, over your greens in a large salad bowl when you’re ready to toss them with those irresistible toasted breadcrumbs.
Pasta with Crispy Breadcrumbs, Anchovies, and Garlic
Yield 2 to 3
Pasta inspired by a recipe in Mario Batali's Molto Italian If you like Italian cooking, this book is a source of endless inspiration. I have had it for years now, and it is always the one I turn to when I just want to flip through something and start dreaming. What's nice about the book's recipes, especially the pasta ones, is that they aren't overly precise and can be used as a guide and tailored to what you have on hand or to your preferences. The original recipe for this pasta called for caramelized onions, which would be a delicious addition. Source for the Homemade Breadcrumbs: Bon Appètit As I mention in the post, I make breadcrumbs whenever I have stale bread on hand. Once you have a stash of whizzed breadcrumbs in your freezer, making toasted breadcrumbs to add to various dishes becomes effortless. I usually make smaller batches, using about a tablespoon and a half of olive oil per cup of breadcrumbs.
- 1/2 lb. short pasta, such as campanelle, orecchiette, or gemelli
- kosher salt
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
- 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
- 4 to 5 anchovies, minced
- freshly cracked black pepper
- 1/4 to 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh basil or parsley
- 1 cup toasted breadcrumbs (recipe below)
for the breadcrumbs:
- stale bread
- olive oil
- kosher salt
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a big pinch of kosher salt. Add pasta and cook al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking liquid. Drain. Set aside.
- Meanwhile, in a small skillet, place oil, pepper flakes, garlic and anchovies. Bring to a sizzle over high heat. Swirl around so that all of the ingredients mingle together — 30 seconds or so — then remove pan from heat. Set aside.
- Place pasta in a large bowl. Add about 2 tablespoons of the reserved pasta cooking liquid and toss. Add the anchovy-infused olive oil mixture and toss well. Taste. Add more pasta cooking liquid if necessary. Season with salt (if necessary) and fresh cracked pepper if you wish. Add chopped basil and toasted breadcrumbs, and toss well. Serve.
To make the breadcrumbs:
Tear about 1/4 of a good loaf of rustic white bread (fresh or day-old) until you've got 2 cups 1-inch crustless breadcrumbs. Pulse in a food processor until crumbs are coarse. Toast crumbs in about 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, tossing frequently, until crunchy and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Season with kosher salt and let cool on a paper towel-lined plate.
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