November 12, 2015 40 Comments

Sweet Potatoes with Chilies, Lime, & Cilantro

Name: Sweet Potatoes with Chilies, Lime, & Cilantro
Prep time: 10 min
Cook time: 1 h
Total time: 1 h 10 min
Ingredients: 2 1/2 pounds large sweet potatoes, about 2 to 3; 1 finely chopped jalapeno, seeds included; 1 large, thinly sliced shallot or 1/4 red onion; 2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, from about 1 lime; 2 tablespoons olive oil or melted coconut oil; 1/4 cup roughly chopped mint, if you have it; 1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro; 1/4 cup chopped, roasted peanuts, optional; salt to taste

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Friends, I received another disheartening letter from a dear friend. I’ve transcribed it below:

Dear Ali,

I hope this letter finds you well. I’m reaching out because I saw you signed up for the Roxbury Farm winter CSA again — thank you! — and I know, as a result, you and I will be spending a lot of time together.

I feel awkward reaching out like this, but I think it’s best I voice my concerns now. You see, about this time of year every year, I find myself in the hands of cooks determined to turn me into something that, well, frankly, I’m just not. I admire their dedication, I do, but I think it’s time to face the facts: no matter how much cornstarch you toss me in, no matter how long you soak me, no matter how high you blast the oven, I am not going to taste like a French fry. I am not a potato — we’re not even in the same family. Try try try as you might, you will be disappointed.

What do you say? Do you think we could wipe the slate clean? Do you think you could accept ME for ME this winter?

I hope you understand. And I hate to impose, but if you wouldn’t mind sharing this with anyone you think might be interested, I would so appreciate it.

Your friend,
Sweet Potato

Sweet Potato! My sweet sweet Sweet Potato! On behalf of the entire cooking community, I extend my sincerest apologies. I promise to accept and cherish and embrace YOU for YOU, orange-fleshed or white, soft and creamy, with the occasional caramelized edge, but always with the sweetest of sweet hearts.

From here on out I promise to highlight your strengths, starting with this recipe for mashed sweet poatoes with chilies, lime and cilantro. It’s a Tamar Adler recipe from The New Greenmarket Cookbook, and feels very new and fresh and Ottolenghi in spirit, but reminds me of one my oldest, most favorite recipes from Chez Panisse Vegetables, which calls for simply squeezing fresh lime over roasted sweet potatoes and showering fresh cilantro over top.

In her recipe, Adler suggests cooling the potatoes in the fridge, slicing them into rounds, then dressing them with the chilies, lime and cilantro. For whatever reason, I’ve chosen to mash everything together, which gives this a guacamole-like taste and texture, making it as suitable for serving aside chips as perhaps some larger bird.

For sweet potato lovers, this dish no doubt will be a welcomed addition to your repertoire. And for everyone else, I suspect this, with its bright, fresh flavors, may just win you over, too.